RACING A GRAND NATIONAL HYDROPLANE

        The GNH class is the premier class of APBA Inboard Racing. It is the most powerful class of hydroplane racing which utilizes a naturally aspirated, piston powered engine. This section of my site is a direct response to the many myths concerning this class and it is my belief that it is these 'fairy tails' which prevent the class from growing. Reporting inflated costs of GNH racing programs does nothing but harm growth of the class and swell the egos of the current owners. I am not saying it is cheap, and while you cannot expect to field a GNH race team for the same amount as a 2.5L Stock, it is not relegated only to the realm of millionaires and corporate entities. But yes, it will require a definite financial commitment and/or good sponsorship. It also takes a lot of old fashion 'elbow grease', or hard work. However, hydroplane racing in general, and the GNH class in particular, IS the final frontier. It is the last motor sport in America that a privateer CAN compete in at the top levels. It is exhilarating and addicting; and there is absolutely nothing that compares to it.

         This section is entirely subjective; that is, it is merely my opinion. It is based on my own experience and research as well as my likes, dislikes and personality quirks. And, as usual, all the usual disclaimers apply. I am not trying to write the definitive book on the GNH class nor on hydroplane racing in general. My goal is to give you, the reader, a baseline; a place to start. As with all things, take from this the things you can, and discard the things which don't apply. As you read on, you will realize that some of the things that I am saying are through experience; I spent a fair amount of time learning by trial and error. If  I could have converted the wasted energy into electricity, I could have provided enough energy to light New York City for a year!! Hopefully I am giving guidance so the aspiring GNH racer can learn from my miss steps and use this as a 'shortcut' to success. I also hope this educates GNH fans and sponsors and removes the mystery as to just what it takes to run in this class. Please direct any questions you may have to me personally and I will answer them or find someone who can.

        The first thing that needs to be done is to take stock of your personal financial situation. Racing anything; a car, boat, motorcycle, or airplane,  is  a function of finances. And in each of these sports,  money equals speed. The more money you have, the faster you can go.  Each sport has a general financial  range, and within that sport, each class or subset will also have a range.  For example, in the sport of  jet airplane racing, the buy-in for racing an L-39 jet is about $250,000; compared to that, racing a hydroplane is cheap. 

        There are many different classes in APBA racing; each entails different financial and technical considerations. The question that should be asked first is simply is: what is your goal? Are you interested in the technical aspects of building a highly modified engine? Do you just want to go out and run around the track? Do you want to run middle-of-the-pack or do you want to run up front? Just how fast do you want to go? After that initial question is answered, you must take stock of the "peripherals" necessary to racing, and again, what level you will be happy with. By peripherals, I mean those things which need to be considered after you have made up your mind concerning the hull and motor. The line blurs between some of these subjects and more of one can mean less of another. (For example, receiving more help results in the expenditure of less personal time). The major peripherals to think about are the following:

1.) Workshop to house the boat and to work on it.

2.) Tools appropriate to the level you need. 

3.) Help 

4.) Time

5.) Tow vehicle. 

6.) Miscellaneous costs (equipment, operational/traveling, promotional etc)

        Lets first examine the first item on the list; the Workshop. It is my opinion that a hydroplane should be housed inside, rather than out in the elements. If it is outside, it is an absolute necessity to cover the boat as wood and fiberglass left to the elements will, over time, absorb water. In assessing a workshop, it must be large enough to house the boat and trailer. It also must  be big enough so you have the room to work around the boat when it is on the trailer or on a dolly.  

         One thing that is important when determining the workshop situation is whether it has 110 and/or 220 electricity (important consideration in terms of what tools you have) and whether it has running water, heat and air-conditioning. It is imperative that the workshop is 'user friendly' or the result will be that you will neglect to do the work you need to do simply because the shop is too uncomfortable to work in. 

        In my particular case, my garage was sufficient for my 2.5L Stock. When I initially purchased my GNH, I had to modify my two garage doors (they became one), and had to have the measurements of my new boat down to a tee. I had 3 inches of clearance between the top of my canopy and the steel girder that spans the width of my garage, with the boat on the trailer. Even then, the boat had to be positioned perfectly on the trailer for the tips of the sponsons to clear the garage door, which, when shut, would rest on top of the trailer tongue. Approximately 3 feet of trailer tongue stuck out the front of the garage. Since this time, I have had to replace the axles on my trailer. This increased the height of the trailer, and of course, the boat. The end result is that my boat no longer fits in the garage at all.

        Fortunately, I have purchased a rather large (approximately 12,000 square foot) warehouse which I am in the process of converting into a proper workshop. This is a story in itself; it is a large, rather decrepit looking structure which was built in 1900. Basically a wood framed building, it is covered by sheets of rusting, corrugated tin nailed to it. Simply put, it is a huge building with a concrete floor, electricity and nothing else. When I first saw it, I noticed one of the sides of the building appeared rounded; it was not a straight line from the far end to the near end. I later learned that this was by design; the building was part of a lumber yard, and the railroad tracks (long since gone), had curved around the building. 

        The warehouse met all my criteria; the main one being that it is less than 10 minutes from my house and about 5 minutes from my office. Currently I am building Demon Chaser Racing's office space as well as several bays, one of which is being built specifically for the Demon Chaser. A special bay is being built for the Demon Chaser's little sister, which at this point, is just a 'gleam in my eye.' The decision has not yet been made to have that  25 foot "baby" or not. After all, having another child is a big deal. Housing, clothing (paint job) and feeding  (VP 114 octane) one becomes very expensive. And they usually want everything their sister has-- a dry sump system and all those expensive braided lines and fittings. In addition, sometimes when they get older they want to go out and play with bigger boys and girls (Grand Prix) and this presents all sorts of new expenses.  My workshop is being specifically set up to work on my other motorsports projects (both drag bike and car), and maintenance of my daily drivers. While I cannot afford to purchase all the tools I would like (a dyno would nice...), a dyno room and "clean" room, as well as space for an auto lift are being designed (but not currently built) into the workspace. If I ever become financially solvent, those areas will become a reality.  I will admit it is an ambitious project; and one that is taxing my financial reserves as well as my credit limit. The decision to go forward with these plans was one which was done only after much soul searching. 

        After last season, I analyzed where my problems were. It simply boiled down to the fact that I needed a workplace where I could maximize my efficiency and with an absolute minimum of hassle, get my boat ready for the next race. I don't have the luxury of a paid crew, and all my friends are extremely busy. I can't expect them to drop everything they are doing for the six month race season, and be at my beck and call. Last season, I found myself working to 1or 2 AM, trying to get things ready to race, then having to get to my 'real' job at 7 AM. I was spending as much time and energy in my race program as I was in my 'real' job. In looking closely at the problem, I found to a certain degree, this was really an 'efficiency' issue. My time was spent getting ready to do the particular task or cleaning up after the task, rather than the task at hand. And the task at hand was taking more time than it needed because I didn't have exactly the right tools. So... I had to make the decision whether I was going to have an efficient, proper environment to work in, or pour my resources into building my store of parts reserves. Decision time. 

        The payoff in building the workshop is one in which the results are not as tangible as having a spare engine or a number of spare propellers. The difference however, may mean staying in boat racing or quitting. Boat racing is supposed to be fun-- if it is all 'work', the chances you will stay involved become smaller. Again, the decision has to boil down to whether you are in the sport for the long haul or not. Every sport has a learning curve; hydro racing is no different. The key is to shorten the learning curve so you can get more enjoyment out of the sport as quickly as possible. By the following season (2003), I will be able to put my financial resources into spare parts again. (Note: when I am discussing this, I am talking about big ticket items-- primarily engines. If you can't afford normal spares, i.e. starters, flywheels, distributors, oil pumps and parts of this nature, you should re-evaluate your financial ability to run in this class).

       The tools you will need will, to a certain degree, depend on the third factor, 'Help.' If you do not have a number of RELIABLE people to help you, you will need to become self-sufficient. (My definition of a 'reliable' person is one who shows up to help when he says he is going to). Self sufficiency means that you must set everything up so you need, at most, only one extra set of hands. The number and specificity of tools will depend on how much you do yourself. Generally though, you must have the capability to lift the boat off the trailer for repairs as well as remove the engine for routine maintenance. At a minimum you will need a winch (electric or manual), to lift the boat or engine. You will need either a strong rafter or a gantry to hang the winch from. It would be nice to have a dolly so when you need to do work on the trailer you have a place to put the boat. If you don't have a dolly you can hang the boat from the slings, but it is not recommended to do that for long periods of time as the weight of the boat will stress the hanging attachments. A quick word about maintenance here; it is absolutely imperative. Especially if you run on the East Coast where most of our races are in salt water. You cannot run in the GNH class and expect to bring the boat home from a race, park it without going through it, and expect the engine to hold together for any length of time. The engines we use are thoroughbred beasts; designed to run full throttle with an output in excess of 800 horsepower, utilizing a 600 cfm carburetor. The fact these engines put out this much power while using such a tiny carburetor in itself says something about the quality/construction of these engines. 

         As far as specific tools, again, this will be dependant on the amount of work you do yourself. I have a professional engine builder but also assemble my engines myself. I have a number of tools specific to engine assembly; i.e. engine stand, torque wrench, ring installer, 12 point sockets etc.  If you only do routine maintenance, you will only need to pump out the oil and remove the engine. This requires a minimum of tools and an oil pump. If you actually do hull repair you will need the appropriate wood working tools (different saws, chisels etc). 

        Some nice-to-have tools are an air compressor, band saw, drill press, welder and grinder, and the list can go on and on. The best thing to do if you are new and desire to work on the boat is to first analyze whether the task is within the scope of your capability. Then decide whether the tool that is needed will be used enough to warrant the purchase price. I have a couple of criteria when it comes to whether I am going to do the work myself or pay someone else to do it. If it is a weld that my life may depend on, or is critical to the boat, I would rather have an expert do it. If it is a task I am going to spend 2 days to do and save myself  a pittance, I pay someone else to do it. My time is at a premium because there is so little of it. I enjoy doing as much as I can, but there is the practical issue to consider. I work on my boat to a certain degree because of financial considerations, however, I want to race. If I am not racing because my boat is disassembled and I can't get it ready in time by myself, then it is time to consider paying someone who can do it quickly and efficiently. I have to admit though, even if I  could afford to pay someone to do all the necessary work,  I would still do a certain amount myself. I simply enjoy it. 

       Even if you are a superman, you need help. However, the amount of help you need really depends on your own level of expertise and how efficiently you have constructed your workplace. At home, the ability to remove your engine without relying on someone else being able to get over to your shop is of countless value. If you go to the races alone sometimes (as I do) you will find that people will help get you in the water. However, keep in mind this will add to the 'stress' factor; you will have a number of things to do to prepare the boat to race. Depending upon where the GNH's are running in the race schedule, this can make for a very 'harried' type of situation. If you don't arrive at the race with help though, you will find that boat racers are, without a doubt, the friendliest of competitors. Fellow racers (regardless of which class they race in), will help you when you have a problem. Even other GNH owners will lend you spare parts and help you.  I think this is because if you are on the trailer, they can't beat you in the water! And boat racers want to race!! There is no other sport in which I have found this type of sportsmanship and it is what makes hydroplane racing so special. 

        If you have a full-time job, and cannot always  take an extra day off when you need to (for those races farther away), you will have to take into consideration the logistics of getting the boat to the race site. This will require either volunteer or paid assistance in the form of a truck driver. If this is the case, you probably should factor in the cost of transportation to the race separately for yourself, either by car or plane.

        While I didn't always go to the races with people to help me, I have a very extensive support system at home base. At home, you either need to be able to do hull repair yourself or have someone reliable to do it. The same goes for engine work; whether it is setting the valves and timing, or tearing down your engine to replace the bearings. It is extremely difficult to do all the thing necessary to run a race program by yourself. If you are doing everything by yourself, you will be cramming a full time activity in a part time time-frame. When I "broke," I literally called back home from the race site to set up a schedule to get things fixed in the coming week. 

        To sum things up, the amount of help you will need depends to a great deal upon your own capabilities, but you will need a minimum of one (preferably two) people at the races. They are needed to help get you off the trailer and into the water. One of those individuals can 'double' as your radio person.  I have gotten to the point where I get the boat "set up" at the races myself; clean my windshield, install my air system and check it, warm up the engine and check the timing, and pull my oil filter and check it for metal shavings during heats (or at a minimum at the end of the day), put on my prop and hook up my shaft etc., pretty much by myself, but it is still nice to have an "extra" set of hands to get things done. It took me a full season to get my procedures down to the point where they are efficient, I am not harried, and I feel very comfortable. It maybe a coincidence, but the first final (Rising Sun) that I won, I was ready a long time prior to my boat being called to the crane. My thoughts were not on the work I had to do on the boat, but rather concentrating on the setup of the race course and being able to watch the line the other drivers took around the buoys. Be very aware that the more work you have to do just prior to driving makes things very hectic and doesn't leave you the time to mentally prepare yourself for the race. It's great when you have a couple of people hooking your slings up and getting the boat into the water. This leaves you time to make sure everything else is being done properly; i.e. slings are not under your mirrors so they get broken when the crane lifts the boat and things of this nature, and lets you focus on the task of driving.

        Examples of tasks for your team are listed as follows:

        If you have to work for a living, you will find that 'time' is the most precious commodity you have. And you will never have enough.  In the previous section ('Help') the logistical issue of getting your rig to the races was discussed. This is obviously a 'Time' consideration also. After each race there are maintenance issues to be taken care of and you WILL break things. You have to have the motivation to work on your boat at night after your 'real' job responsibilities are taken care of. This can be both physically and emotionally draining. If you have a family, this can be a real consideration because they are going to want to see you sometime too.  

        This is not a full-time job, but depending on two factors, it may take an almost 'full-time' commitment during the race season. The first factor is how driven you are to 'fiddle' with your boat. Because of the logistical and financial issues, most testing will be done during the actual races. Getting a crane to put you into the water and a chase boat full of qualified rescue people every time you want to try out a new prop or re-balance the boat is simply not feasible. So you end up doing your modifications during the week, trying them out at the race and then going back and un-doing what you did if it doesn't work. The second factor is dealing with problems if you start running into them. I am very familiar with this second factor!! However, to be accurate, if you are not having problems, the work load will be reduced considerably. You will only have to do regular maintenance which means a thoroughly cleaning every component of the boat so you can check it as well as fight the never-ending battle against corrosion. 

        This actually brings up another important fact. If you plan on racing in the GNH class, give yourself 3-5 seasons (years). It will take you a minimum of one season (in my opinion) to have all the normal issues worked out and a second season to refine everything. The third season should be a breeze. (Yeah, right!!) In my case, I finally ironed out the last of a myriad of mechanical problems (primarily a recalcitrant carburetor) just prior to the end of the first season. A beautiful win during the final at Rising Sun, re-motivated me and I expect my second season to be one where I refine my driving technique (and probably run into a myriad of problems I can't even conceive right now).

        The fifth item of the peripherals you need to consider is your tow vehicle. Here again, you have a choice. A truck will suffice if you are by yourself or only have a few individuals with you. You may want to consider an extended cab or crew cab depending on the size of your crew. If you utilize a truck, you will have to get a hotel at the races and the number of rooms will obviously be dependent on the number of people with you. When I started racing  my 2.5L Stock, I actually towed it with a Jeep Wrangler. I wouldn't encourage this though. While I was physically able to do it, it was a very rough ride (try towing 10-14  hours!!) and it was very tiring. Without getting  off on a tangent, suffice it to say that at my first race, I spent more time packing my equipment and working on the Jeep (which caught fire), than I did dealing with the boat. That's a story for another time. 

        An alternative to a regular truck,  is a "shop" truck; one that can tow the boat and have a mini shop onboard for any repairs you may need to do on-site. With this option, you will still need to utilize hotels.  A third alternative is a motor home. There are a great number of races where you can set up in the pits or very close by. The motor home won't save you any money (I did a financial analysis trying to justify it) but it is extremely convenient. I have a family and have found the motor home to be the only way to go when they are with me. If the family doesn't go with me, occasionally I will tow with my truck and stay in a hotel but normally I take the motor home. The added benefit of a motor home is that if you have to leave after work (as I do most of the time), you can pull into the pits at 2:00 or 3:00am and go to sleep and are ready to go the next morning. In the same circumstance, getting to the hotel and then getting up to go to the pits in the morning is much harder and you get a lot less sleep. 

        A word of caution concerning a motor home. As a first-time buyer, you need to do your homework. The RV market appears to be one in which the prevailing price of the vehicle is what ever the market will bear. In the year 2000, I  managed to locate three Class A RV's which were exactly the same make, model and year (1997). All three were in comparable condition (very good to excellent) with the same options. The only variance was the mileage, which ranged between the three by only about 15,000 miles. The one with the most mileage had about 35,000 miles. The different asking prices were $54,999, $44,999 and $33,499, which is quite a spread. The medium and low priced RV's were being sold by private parties, and the highest priced one was being sold by a dealership. I used the internet as a tool to gather information and several of the most informative sites provided the same warning concerning pricing that I just stated. 

        Incidentally, I also used the internet to procure financing. I financed the entire cost of the RV for 15 years with nothing down. I was able to beat the "bank" rate by 2 percentage points. (While normally I want to pay off debt as quickly as possible, in this case I was interested in having the lowest monthly payment. Since my payment is relatively small and low enough as to not be a burden, it doesn't make me feel that I have to use the RV all the time to "get my money's worth." Although it is primarily used  for racing purposes we did take a week vacation (at Disney World) in it. (Note: If you think a race program is expensive, try taking the family (six) to Disney World for a week!!-- Thank goodness I have great in-laws who financed that endeavor!). To sum things up, my feeling is the motor home is absolutely great; whether for the race program or for simply getting away for the weekend with the family. It may also qualify for a tax credit-- consult your tax attorney. At any rate,  I'm definitely a convert. 

        There are a number of one-time equipment costs encountered in racing which will have to be absorbed up front. Some of these costs will be there whether you race in the GNH class or a different class, but they still need to be budgeted for. APBA registration (owner/driver license fees) must be paid. The driver is required to have a Nomex driving suit, helmet, and capsule suit (or vest). In addition, if you run a closed capsule, you will need air bottles, air mask, regulator and the associated hoses. Radios, crew chief headset, and molded ear pieces are also equipment used in the GNH class. I used radios when I ran the 2.5L Stock, but it was not required. In the GNH class it is a requirement. When I initially purchased my equipment, I didn't buy the crew chief headset. I purchased one when I ran the GNH last year and I highly recommend it. Your radio person will be able to hear you much better than without it. You also will be responsible for supplying crew uniforms and there are a few items you will need to take to the races to make things easier.  An 'E-Z Up' style tent, a table to lay your tools out on, fold up chairs and a generator are a couple of examples. 

        Probably the largest miscellaneous cost is the operational one; what it costs to actually get to a race site and race. You need to factor in the following at a minimum:

        Another cost that needs to be considered is the promotional one. Pictures of your boat are pretty much a necessity if you intend to obtain sponsorship. In addition, a promotional presentation (or at least a brochure) is something to think about. If you display your boat to publicize the class or hydroplane racing in general, your travel costs need to be considered. 

        The last issue I will touch upon is a philosophical one, but one which also impacts your wallet to a certain degree. To quote the rule book on this one, the objective of the GNH class rules are "to promote and govern a professional class of propeller driven Inboard racing Hydroplanes using high performance versions.... The part that I feel should be emphasized is the term "professional." While there are several definitions of the term, generally when one refers to a "professional" they are defining a standard--"having great skill or experience in a particular field or activity." What follows that definition, is really more important. And that is an expectation of the behavior of the "professional," which extends from attire to personality. When someone says that a particular individual did not act or appear professional, really what they are saying is that the individual fell below an intangible standard of excellence. As a GNH owner, there are expectations placed upon you. It is expected for example, that you and your team will dress appropriately (team attire) as put forth in the rule book. The appearance of your entire program is highly visible. As more and more races are becoming televised, it is important to realize that you may be in the public eye more frequently, not because you are a great racer, but simply because you are racing in high profile class. In this 'modern' age, all motorsports are vying for a limited amount of publicity and sponsorship. As a member of the class it is important to remember that you (like all other racers regardless of the class) are an ambassador for our sport. To a certain degree it's like a 'first impression'; you only get to make it once-- and if it's not a good one, you may not get an opportunity to make another.

        Okay. You've got the workshop, tools and all the help you could possibly need. You've just run out and purchased a brand new truck as well as motor home to tow the next world record holder. Now for the ultimate dilemma;  buy new or used? For most of us, this question is answered rather emphatically by our meager race budgets. A new hull alone costs between $60,000 and $97,500. This is minus hardware (skid fin, rudder, gauges, seat, fire-system, etc), rigging and engine. Figure on at least $5,000 for hardware and rigging.  Then you need to have a trailer built which will (at the very low end) cost at least $9,000. A nicely equipped, dual or triple axle, tilt trailer with built in storage boxes will usually run in the neighborhood of $15,000 or more. However, all is not lost. The are a number of good, used packages out there. If you buy used, you normally get a trailer in the deal. 

        I will focus on 'used' hulls rather than on 'new' in this section, simply because there are very few people who will run out and purchase a new hull when first getting into the class. If you are reading this and belong to that select group, great!! The only thing you will need to keep in mind so you will not have unreasonable expectations, is that a new hull will need to be 'shaken down' and fine tuned as there is no baseline established. All hydroplanes are custom items and no two will handle or fly the same. Very few hulls run great right out of the box. 

        When I am asked by individuals what it costs to run in the class, I usually respond that there is no magic number; rather it is a range, starting with entry level, used packages at about $25,000. And yes, surprisingly enough, there are competitive packages out there, hull fully rigged and with engine and minimal spares, starting between $25,000 to $30,000. This is less than the cost of a new, bare 5L hull!! When buying in this price range, there will be a bit of work involved but usually not a full rebuild. Also keep in mind that at this figure, you aren't going to have very many spares, and you certainly won't have a spare engine.  This price range also presupposes several things: you bought a package from someone who was leaving the class or had purchased a new boat, or someone who needed to sell his equipment for financial reasons. Factor in the time to do some work on the package (and/or funds to pay someone to do the work) and do not expect to run up front. At least not initially. Once you have the base items (hull/motor/props), there are many ways to make it go faster-- these require ingenuity and experimentation and not necessarily money. One major advantage of buying 'used' is that you are inheriting the research and development that has been done on the boat. You should be able to get information such as props which have been tried and didn't work, as well as different weights setups and a number of other experiments the previous owner tried, so you are not 're-creating the wheel' with your race program.

         I do not want to delude anyone into thinking that for $25,000 you can come into the class and smoke the competition. (I used the words "entry level" and "competitive" which means you won't be the tail end of the pack!!) However, conversely, it's a fairy tale that you have to have $250,000 in your boat TO GET STARTED (emphasis on "to get started") . Of course, later on, (and especially) if you factor in the cost of your total race program; workshop, tools, motor home, spare engines,  etc., the total could be higher! While I do believe you can get started for $25,000-$30,000, be prepared, over time, to spend quite a bit more to run up front. This class is NOT cheap. If you want to race in this class you need to face the reality that it is going to cost some money. Period. Depending on how creative you are and how much work you want to do, the cost can actually be very reasonable. It is cheaper to tweak a good base boat than it is to go out and buy a brand new hull. I think that is why there are so many good, used boats out there. Most people start with a good, used foundation and spend a lot of time R & D'ing it. Over time, this does translate into a fairly substantial investment and you will find that many people who are currently racing have been in the class for years and do have an enormous labor and financial investment in their race program. 

        You should be aware that there are a few GNH hulls out there that can be had in used condition starting as low as $10,000. I need to insert a word of caution here: A hull you buy for $10,000 is probably worth just that. It most likely will need a complete refurbishing. This will entail either a lot of money or time or both. In addition, you need to make sure that it has a certified, reinforced cockpit; which I will discuss later.

        As is the way with most things, the more you put into it, the more you get out of it. I personally believe you should buy the best package you can afford, rather than try to buy at the very low end with the expectation of saving a large amount of money. It has been my experience with my various motorsports 'projects' that when I bought at the very low end of the spectrum and did the work myself with the expectation of saving a lot of money, I instead ended up spending more money. In cases where I did save money, I spent so much extra time that the financial saving simply wasn't worth it.        

       Using the financial figures I have given, you can pretty much figure out how much money someone has in his/her rig. Regardless of how much a race package initially costs, after a couple of years of R & D, your investment will be considerable, no matter how carefully you budget. And yes, there are a number of very expensive boats out there, and a number of race programs do have a fairly large budget. Remember what the cost of a new hull is, and that there is "no free lunch." You will either have a fair amount of money invested in your boat up-front, or you will be doing a lot of work. For those that desire to race in this class and are on a "shoestring," the choices simply come down to what are necessities and what are nice-to-have items. The key is to get into the class for a reasonable amount and learn where to best put your money. Most of us can afford to put financial resources into a project over time, it's the up-front costs that are hard to absorb. When it comes to finances, like everything else, the bottom line is that it really depends on the individual. Each of us has different criteria. When I was 20 years old, I would have had no problem with towing my boat with a standard cab truck and sleeping in it. That simply isn't the case now. While I don't require a 5 star hotel, I want to be comfortable.       

           So... once you have made your initial decision (new or used'), there are three primary things you will have to think about:

1. How much work do you want to do?

2. Older or newer, smaller or bigger  ?

3. Open or closed  cockpit?   

        How much work do you want to do? Generally the price of the hull will be largely based on how old it is, what condition it is in, and whether it has a reputation as a fast hull. Also, as I stated above, the situation the seller is in. He/she may be buying a bigger boat , moving to another class (these are usually the two main reasons), getting out of racing altogether (this is actually pretty rare), or have a personal financial situation which forces the sale. The primary decision comes down to whether it is more cost effective to repair or refurbish a 'tired' hull or pay more for one that is 'race ready' or closer to being 'race ready.' Factors weighing in on the decision will be whether you are going to do the work yourself or pay someone else to do it, and just how much time is necessary for preparation. I generally use multiples of  "2" (100% increase) to approximate both time and money when it comes to anything concerning the boat. If it is supposed to take one week to fix a problem and cost $1000, it probably will take 2 weeks and cost $2000. A hull that has a reputation as a championship boat is worth more because unlike most other sports, the hull itself is a custom item.  Duplication of a championship hull is impossible. You can take two boats which weigh the same and built by the same boat builder, and find that one will perform beautifully and the other not at all. The same can be said for duplication of other parts; a rudder for example.

         One of the primary advantages to boat racing over any other motor sport is that the year a boat was built is really not important from the standpoint of technology. What I mean by this is that unlike other motorsports such as car racing, where a chassis becomes outdated within a matter of one or two years, this is not true in boat hulls. The things to think about are length, width and weight. Older boats that do not have the new technology, i.e. composite material, are generally heavier. As boats are being rebuilt however, composite material can be incorporated, turning an older boat into a hybrid of sorts. It then retains the strength, and remains competitive from a weight standpoint.  Older boats are now being fitted with composite sponsons and/or frames. My boat is the perfect example of this. As noted in the History and Restoration sections of this site, my boat was originally built in 1984, yet obviously (as a current world record holder) is still very competitive (understatement) with the all-composite boats currently being built. Older boats are also generally smaller in both width and length. Generally it can be argued that a narrower boat will turn quicker however, a wider boat will 'pack' more air and 'fly' the 'straights' faster. There will always be a trade-off. There are minimum weight and length rules in the GNH class, with the minimum length being 20 feet. This really only makes a difference depending on the 'water' you compete in. A smaller boat takes a bigger beating in rough water, or running with much bigger boats. Boats in all the classes are getting bigger and the GNH class is no exception. New boats are being built in the 24 to 25 foot range however, most boats in the class right now are probably between 21.5 and 23.5 feet, with some exceptions. 

        Newer boats are generally being built with a closed cockpit; a cockpit with a canopy. Older boats can be retrofitted with a canopy and many owners are having that done. This is primarily a matter of personal preference. Both the open and closed cockpit are legal in the GNH class. If you run with a closed canopy, you should have an air system. Only a MORON gets in a boat that has the capability of turning upside down and trapping the driver underwater without an air system. An additional word about air systems. An added benefit of an air mask is that if you 'blow over' and are knocked unconscious and are underwater, the mask continues to pump air. You should plan for the worst case scenario, not the best. Keep in mind a closed canopy restricts the driver's vision considerably and also has a much different 'feel' than an open cockpit. If you aren't sure whether you want to run with a canopy or not, you can have one constructed in such a manner that it is removable. Although I had mine constructed in this manner so as to give me the choice to run with it or not, I doubt I will ever remove it and run an open cockpit.

        One important thing you need to check when purchasing a boat is whether it has a reinforced cockpit or not. If it does, it will have an APBA certification laminated to the inside of the cockpit somewhere. If it does not have this certification, it is not a reinforced cockpit. You cannot compete in APBA competition without a reinforced cockpit. There are still older boats out there (which are not currently being raced) that were not converted to a reinforced cockpit when it became mandatory. A boat like this may be bought for a very attractive price but remember to factor in the cost of a new cockpit. Currently the price for a certified cockpit will range between $3000 and $6,500 depending on who builds it, and there will be an additional cost to install it unless you have that capability. You can, by following the instructions in the APBA rulebook, fabricate one yourself and get it certified. If you are unsure about your fabrication ability and are only going this route to save money, I would advise against it. A GNH at speed will run in excess of 150 mph. That cockpit is the only thing between you and the water, or another boat going at that speed. My advice on reinforced cockpits is similar to that concerning air systems. As the saying goes, "If you have a $20 head, wear a $20 helmet." The same holds true for all safety matters.

          The engine. The heart and soul of the beast. There is quite some lore surrounding the engine, both concerning the cost and power output. I would like to put things into perspective. Recently a member of the 6 Liter class purchased an engine which reportedly cost in the neighborhood of $47,000. (And to set the record straight I'm NOT talking about the #1 boat in the class). In terms of power, the 6L class is the one directly below the GNH class. The natural assumption is that if an engine can cost around $47,000 in the 6L class, it must be even more expensive in the 7 Liter (GNH) class. While I do not know what the other owners are spending on their engines, I think it is safe to say that while engines are expensive, your AVERAGE owner is NOT spending $50,000 per engine to power their boats. 

        So.... what is the AVERAGE cost of an engine? Before I get everyone too excited, let me say that I am not going to be able to provide a hard and fast number. There are too many variables; the price and quality of parts run the spectrum as does the price and quality of engine builders. What is important to emphasize is that there is a great range. While you cannot build a GNH engine for the same cost as a 2.5L Stock, it isn't necessarily going to cost $50,000. (Of course, if you want to spend this type of money, there are plenty of people who will be happy to accommodate you!!) 

        There are two engines permitted in the GNH class; the modified one (regulated only by cubic inches and a 600 carburetor) and the alternate engine which has certain specifications but is allowed to run a larger carburetor. The alternate engine was introduced to find a (hopefully) less expensive alternative to the modified engine. However, due to technology, mass production and the quality of off-the-shelf heads, the gap is actually quite close. Both my engines are modified so I am relatively knowledgeable as to what building and running these engines entails. I have an excellent engine builder, but also assemble my own engines, which reduces my cost considerably. Lest someone put me in the category of someone who has done this all his life, let me quickly disabuse you of that notion. The first time I disassembled and assembled my current race engines was this past season. I had never torn down or rebuilt a 'big block' until this time. Fortunately I receive assistance from my engine builder via telephone from the west coast, have knowledgeable friends, and I read everything I can get my hands on concerning engines and their components. I am bringing up my own situation to illustrate a point; there are a number of people who do a large amount of their own engine work. As I said before, this reduces costs considerably. However, for as many people who are doing their own work, there are those who are paying an engine builder for an entire package. This will obviously be more expensive; how much, depends on the quality of parts you use and how much your engine builder charges. 

        In trying to be accurate concerning pricing of a GNH engine, I know that I probably are going to upset some people in the racing world. Some will judge my figures too low, and others may say they are too high (actually I doubt that because, truth be told, there is no upper end). I will refer you to my original statement at the beginning of this section of the web site. I am basing this information on my OWN experience and research. I am going to go pretty far out on a limb here and give you a base number for an engine using quality parts. The engine I am talking about will have to have been designed and the heads ported by someone who knows what they're doing. You probably could DUPLICATE this engine, getting it professionally ported and assemble it yourself, for no more than $25,000. 

        I know this sounds inexpensive, but I am stressing, this would only be duplicating the engine for this cost. I am not saying you could come up with the original or right configuration for the engine to obtain the maximum horsepower. That is what an expert engine builder is paid for. He is going to squeeze the extra horsepower out of the engine. 

        If you have an expert build your engine the average cost could be between $30,000 - $35,000, including dyno time. An expert engine builder can get in excess of 800 horsepower, running a 600 cfm carburetor, out of a 468 cubic inch engine. And that, people, is what you are paying for.  Much of what you are paying for is a labor intensive skill applied to porting the heads of your engine, as well as meticulous machine work; all of which is extremely time consuming. Of course this is just a figure-- refer to my earlier comment about the 6L engine. You can easily pay upwards of $40,000 but I do not believe this is necessary. 

        Remember that the more involved you are in your race program from a hands-on perspective, the more the opportunity to reduce costs. However, back to the "no free lunch" idea; this requires time. Knowledge may be power, but it takes a lot of time getting opinions and prices from different companies as well as reading all the informative periodicals out there. I use the internet extensively and subscribe to a number of boat,  automotive and race magazines out there. 

        Keep in mind that while there are teams that only have one engine, they probably are in the minority. It certainly is possible to run a season on one engine; I did it out of necessity when I hurt my other engine in the first race of the season. Most teams have two engines so that the season doesn't come to a grinding halt when one of the engines breaks. Again, this is a budgetary issue.         

        I will leave you with one last comment which succinctly illustrates my own opinion on the engine issue.   At Decatur, Deel Me In, arguably one of the fastest boats on the circuit blew an engine in the Qualifier. In the Final, utilizing a back-up (lesser powered) engine from another team, driver Cal Phipps simply outran the field. While  the engine powers the boat, the aerodynamic characteristics of the boat are just as important, if not more. You can't make a pig fly and this applies to hydroplanes too. 'Nuff said.

        In discussing the aforementioned subjects, I have brought up a number of, what might at first glance appear to be roadblocks. That is not my intention. I am merely pointing out that the boat and trailer is only one part of the equation when thinking about racing in the GNH class. The other issues are just as important because, unlike the smaller classes of boats, a larger boat requires much larger resources simply due to the fact it is bigger. Most normal garages will suffice as a workshop to house and work on a 2.5L or 5L. A much larger one is needed for a GNH.  When I needed to turn my 2.5L upside down to work on the bottom, I got a few friends together and we would physically turn it over. Right now, I use a forklift with an extension placed on the forks to raise the GNH up off the trailer and I have a special 'rotisserie' I use to 'spit' the GNH on when both the deck and bottom have to be accessible. I certainly am not saying that you need to run out an buy a forklift or a warehouse to run a GNH. I'm simply pointing out that bigger boats require bigger tools. The tow rating on the tow vehicle you use is also a consideration. The vehicle needed to tow a smaller boat may not have the power to tow a GNH. The boat itself is not the only issue or expense when deciding which class to race in.

        I have spent quite a bit of time discussing the expenses involved in the GNH class. I needed to do this because there are far too many financial numbers bandied about that have no basis in reality. In addition, this is a reality that has to be addressed by a potential owner. There are people who probably have the financial wherewithal to run in this class but have been scared off by some of the exaggerated financial figures that are attributed to the class. Conversely, there is nothing worse that getting into a situation and then realizing that you are spread too thin financially. It simply goes downhill from there. Remember to keep in mind that there is an incredibly wide range when we are talking about the finances. There are so many variables involved in racing that it is a situation that can only be assessed realistically by you, the potential owner. One last comment concerning finances: Even at this (high) level, Inboard Hydroplane racing is probably one of the last motorsports that is financially within reach for your average middle class individual. Where else can you go in excess at 150 mph ON WATER, for this type of investment?

        I have not gone into detail concerning options to defray costs, but the obvious way is through sponsorship; your own or others. Some GNH owners are self-employed, and use their race program to advertise their business. Others have obtained corporate sponsorship, but with the financial support comes contractual responsibilities. Again, these are decisions only you can make.

        My advice to anyone who wants to join this class is to come over and talk to any of us. You will find that you will receive all the advice you need and probably get more than you bargained for!! If you are interested in a used package, ask for some help. We have GNH or UL owners in all parts of the country and there probably is someone in an area close to you who would be willing to go look at a boat with you. As I see it, the main issues boil down to finances and time. As an aspiring racer, you don't want to get in over your head financially, therefore it behooves you to ask lots of questions and become familiar with the class before plunking down any of your hard earned dollars. I can honestly say that I have not run into any unpleasant surprises in the class; financially or otherwise. I had a very good idea of what I was getting myself into and while the magnitude of my 'troubles' (very well documented on this site) was not something I would have chosen, I was very well prepared for it. I was able to run a full season and, at the end, prevailed. (I did break everything I had and had to use up all my spares but I learned some valuable lessons). Because I know up-front what the pitfalls of  GNH racing are, I am able to stay motivated. GNH racing is pretty much the same as racing in any other class except the boat is a little bigger and goes a little faster. And when things break, it's a little more expensive to fix them.  

        I hope this section of the site has been informative. Please remember that it is, in the end, just my opinion. The GNH class is a great class and I hope that if you are considering joining, you will contact one of us and let us help you get started. Happy Racing.

Page last updated February 18, 2007